ClassificationsGreek and Roman Art

Dress Ornament in the Form of a Nautilus Shell

AAT Object Form/Functionsequins (spangles)

AAT Object Form/Functionornaments (object genre)

CultureMinoan

PeriodLate Minoan IIIa

Dateca. 14th Century BCE

MediumGold

Credit LineAnonymous gift

Dimensions7/8 x 1 (2.2 x 2.5)

Object number2005.033.003

Label TextThe almost complete lack of surviving textiles from the ancient world probably represents archaeology's single greatest loss. Their prime importance, however, is made absolutely clear in literature and in their representations in art. The palace accounts for the Minoan palace at Knossos (Linear B tablets) reveal that as many as 100,000 sheep were farmed under close control of the palace in outlying villages. Every year, these communities would supply to the palace specified quantities of woven cloth or unworked wool by way of tribute. Some of this was intended for domestic consumption, for example the uniforms of palace employees. Egyptian representations of Minoans carrying bolts of cloth show that some was destined for export abroad, whether as diplomatic gifts or for exchange in trade.

The Linear B tablets from Knossos and Pylos record that fabrics were made both from wool and (at Pylos) from flax (linen) of various kinds. Sometimes, garments were further adorned with gold sequins. These could be arranged in a row, as a border, or, if fewer were available, given a place of prominence.

Here, the sequin takes the form of a nautilus shell, or Argonaut. Five small holes around the edge enabled it to be stitched to a garment. This cephalopod mollusk, related to the octopus, was thought in antiquity to voyage across the sea by extending its tentacles as a sail. The subject is a favorite of Mycenean and Minoan artists; it recurs on some later Mycenean glass beads in the Museum, 2004.17.5-8. The nautilus can, therefore, be understood as a symbol for enterprising sailors on whom in many ways the Cretan economy and understanding of the world around them were based. Nowhere exerted a greater influence on Minoan Crete than Egpyt, an influence also reflected on a second sequin, 2005.33.2. Gold dress ornaments continued to be made in much later, classical times, as, for instance 2003.8.10-18.
Exhibition HistoryFrom Pharaohs to Emperors: New Egyptian and Classical Antiquities at Emory, Michael C. Carlos Museum, January 14 - April 2, 2006
Monsters, Demons & Winged Beasts: Composite Creatures in the Ancient World, Michael C. Carlos Museum, February 5 - June 19, 2011
MCCM Permanent Collection Reinstallation, September 2013 - June 19, 2014
MCCM Permanent Collection Reinstallation, July 2014 - Present

ProvenanceWith George Allen [Hesperia Art], Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Ex coll., New York, New York.

Status

On view

Collections